Have you gotten your September issues yet? With the pages piling higher, this September welcomes fashion’s biggest glossy gargantuans yet. The American Vogue 120th Anniversary edition comes in at 900+ pages, more than any September issue before it has ever had. With 600 pages of advertisement campaigns (to put that in perspective, an entire September issue of ELLE this year amounts up to those ad pages), Fall fashion is bigger than ever and so are the trends they are spotlighting. This season, the key looks are taking notes from Japanese avant gardism, slick superheroes, 1970s ugliness, friendly forest animals and the height of haute couture. The mash-up of these elements makes for an interesting fashion season, extremely adventurous and creative, yet cohesive and concise in execution. There’s no fearing the faux pas this Fall/Winter, because it’s all about taking a risk and expressing the wilder side of style. From either of our perspectives, in theory or in practice, these latest trends have us thinking “go big or go home.”
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THE DARK KNIGHT
Of all the fashion tropes and jokes, “the new black” leads the pack. The darkest of darks takes center stage as full on leather looks get cinematic. This slick trend looks inspired by Dragon Tattoo and The Dark Knight, or maybe by fashion’s own recent flux.
HE SAID →
Daniel says: The all black, tough, leather-centric look can seem a bit obvious for Fall/Winter but the way designers presented it this season seemed fresher and more interesting. I liked the symbolic and dramatic nature of predominantly black shows like Yves Saint Laurent to mourn and commemorate Stefano Pilati’s removal from the house. Since black is fashion’s favorite color and eliminates the bias of color, the strength of a designer’s signature look shined through. Rick Owens’ drapery was strong and Proenza Schouler’s tough cool-vibe was obvious. Even though this trend can look played out easily, it’s still a go to favorite for a reason and there is definitely an audience for it.
SHE SAID →
Iris says: When it comes to the leather part of this look, I think the shinier and smoother finishes were stronger. For this trend, I don’t like the crinkled, textured, or weathered leather and I prefer the cleaner rendition shown at Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci. A really nice, simple leather jacket has been on my wish list for a while now but it can be difficult to find an affordable one without too much excess decoration. For accessories like bags and shoes, I like shiny patent leathers. I do dig the full leather look but I think it looks cooler to have leather subtly incorporated into little parts of an outfit.
Tips
- This look is about protection and strength. While it’s not the most easy to wear, covering up the whole body is key.
- Play with interesting proportions, voluminous length works just as well as slick and slim.
- Express personal style through makeup and hair choices. Rick Owens glamorized with a red lip and Tisci went 90s spook with brown hues.
- For more inspiration check out the full collections: Givenchy / Rick Owens / Proenza Schouler / Yves Saint Laurent
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THREE PIECE AND A DANDY
Fall 2012 is undoubtedly the season of the suit. Rendered in embellished wool or nubby tweed, this playful new silhouette adds a dress or skirt to the traditional pants and jacket suit, experimenting with proportion and creating new shapes on the body.
HE SAID →
Daniel says: This trend is really heavy handed, but that is what’s so great about it! I love the excess and unnecessary layers and all of the decoration that this dandyism trend has to offer. The skirt over pants look is seemingly new, even though it’s something that has been done in the late 90s and early 2000s, but the structure and dandy richness of 2012’s version is luxurious beyond belief. The mix of furs and tweed and jewels and wool and pattern are so interesting and extreme that it makes fashion exciting and fun to look at. This look breaks all the rules and just goes gung ho for volume and texture. Miuccia Prada is even breaking her own rules, letting jewels creep up above the waistline and onto collars and busts. Still in the calmest of creations, Chanel’s exercise on roundness in shoulders, nipped waists, and flared skirt all in the same material made this playful look seem wearable for the colder months when layers are more important.
SHE SAID →
Iris says: This is my favorite trend since forever! (Well since 2010’s ladylike trend also pushed by Marc Jacobs and Miuccia Prada.) It’s pants season for me, because Miuccia told me so! There are so many different styles of trousers I want, but the main selling point would be a bold print like the ones at Prada. This three-piece suit trend incorporates other trends in with the look, the two biggest trends being embellishment, like at Louis Vuitton, and print mixing. The colors, fabrics, prints, crazy shoes, belts and jewel embellishments were all so chic and I want everything! When looking at this trend, everything is so large and emphasized like gigantic hats and lots of volume in the sleeves and skirts. I love the entire look and play on proportions like cropped shirt jackets with higher, ankle grazing skirts over slim pants. From a marketing perspective, the emphasis on pattern in this trend seems like it will be the most successful. I think that pants in Autumnal colored prints like rusty reds will be the most popular, along with florals. High street shops will probably make jean versions of printed trousers for a more sellable style. This trend has me wanting to try out everything that I’ve been avoiding in fashion and it is super exciting!
Tips
- Don’t be afraid of looking matchy matchy, that’s the point! Look for full patterned outfits with trousers and shirts, or suits.
- Chunky shoes are a must, this trend is not for the delicate and demure.
- Try out new accessories. Statement hats with fur or feathers and boxy jeweled bags are great ways to complete the look.
- For more inspiration check out the full collections: Louis Vuitton / Prada / Marc Jacobs / Chanel
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OUTERWEAR OUTSIZE
The ballooning silhouettes of mid-century Haute Couture Balenciaga have crept their way into fashion for a few seasons and now the oversized coat is bigger than ever, literally. Fashioned out of thick materials, these rounded shoulders and voluminous shapes will abstract the body and keep this Winter warm.
HE SAID →
Daniel says: This is probably my favorite trend of the three, if simply for the drama of body abstraction and extreme silhouettes. I love the different shapes that outerwear can take on, from sharply triangular to riskily rotund. I also enjoy the variation in color and effect that can have on an entire look. A statement coat is an easy way to brighten up an outfit without having to think too much about coordination. My favorites were Raf’s couture-salon pale pinks and succulent reds, colors that also appeared at Comme Des Garçons. The bold print trend also made its way into Rei Kawakubo’s two-dimensional paper doll designs in leopards, florals and camouflage. The more wearable looks, ironically came from conceptual Margiela and futuristic Balenciaga where 1980s-big-business influenced oversized classic camel and slate gray coats. Collars were cut sharp and wide, everything’s bigger this Fall.
SHE SAID →
Iris says: For this oversized outerwear trend, my favorites were at Jil Sander and Comme Des Garçons, both shows were super chic because the coats could double as dresses. I like long length jackets, especially if they are are voluminous, because they create an interesting silhouette from the side view. A unique part of this trend for 2012 was the lack of closures at Jil Sander and Balenciaga, a minimalist choice that I am totally here for. I gravitate toward the thicker materials of this trend because I feel comfortable in more structured fabrics. I think this trend works best when styled with a dress underneath of the same length for a full, complete outfit.
Tips
- Accent bold colored coats with crisp white shirts, turtlenecks, or trousers underneath.
- Keep it clean! Don’t add fussy accessories, overly detailed dresses, or glamorous hairstyles to this look. It’s about simple modernity.
- Buy a coat in a couple sizes larger if the silhouette isn’t dramatic enough alone.
- For more inspiration check out the full collections: Balenciaga / Jil Sander / Comme Des Garçons / Maison Martin Margiela
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FALL 2012 FASHION, ALL THE REST
More key looks and new styles for next season, these are more trends to try.
GO FUR IT He Says:
When the temperature drops, keeping warm is the top priority no matter what fashion says. That is why fur is always a top choice, whether faux, vintage, or real. Despite the controversy, this season’s runways have shown fur in a new way either completely abstracting it or going full-on Bambi. For the former, fur was dyed into Technicolor dream coats at Céline. My favorite color choice was in a bold hot magenta, which despite its pimpin’ color was refined and minimalist, like Philo could touch ever touch garish. Fendi also did a coat that could rival a highlighter, but their boldest statement clopped onto the runway transforming Magdalena Frackowiak into a gazelle (complete with bustle tail). Like the model needs help. It was survival of the fittest, hybrids, and materials looking like other materials. Rubber that looked like fur and fur that looked like birds. I liked the point of view and strength behind taking fur somewhere unique and different. It’s not a look for everyone, but the concept is something everyone can appreciate.
WET SLICK She says:
For me this trend is a thumbs up, the majority of this trend is focused in coats and jackets. The patent, waxy leather looks best at Marni done in bright yellow Madeline-raincoats and at J.W. Anderson in eggplants, rust, and white coats and full outfits. I like it because it’s one of my favorite materials and some of the coolest designers used it this season like at Jil Sander and Acne. Because of the fabric, it makes a simple and basic coat shape blown up and more rectangular, at Acne a red collared coat was belted and looked even stiffer with pebbled leather rounded sleeves. The excess fabric around the arm is a part of this look that adds something cool to the oversized coat trend.
GET HIP He says:
Who knew when Raf Simons introduced the peplum (and color blocking) as his main statement for Jil Sander Spring 2011 that it would make its way to becoming the hippest thing for every single subsequent season including this next? The hip movement this Fall, however, is much less flimsy and flared than Spring 2012’s version and creates a curving sculptural hip. More Monsieur Dior’s Haute Couture Bar Jacket than the SS12 Céline basque. I like this trend toward minimal decoration and maximal play on volume and shape, creating a new body above the existing. It seems like the most interesting and creative way to treat eveningwear, like Alber Elbaz’s Lanvin version. The undulating curves and line of the clothes were simultaneously futuristic and nostalgic. Both undoubtedly strong and feminine.
BROCADE DYNASTY She says:
My favorite way this trend was shown during fashion week was at Proenza Schouler, where the Asian-influenced brocade was done over the entire outfit, either in dresses or separates. The metallic Japanese silk screen prints were framed in thick black borders that look like architecture from the place of inspiration. Another version of this brocade was in a traditional, more Baroque patterns shown at Versace and Dolce & Gabbana. I don’t think that the brocade shines as brightly here because of the old fashioned contrast between saturated yellow gold and blacks. Even though that frilly look wasn’t totally to die for, the embroidery looks really intricate and fun to look at or touch. At Balmain, the Faberge egg shirt had the same vibe but I liked the look paired with trousers more than on a poofy dress. Back to the more Asian influence, Dries Van Noten is always flawless. The brocade dragon embroidery, along with all of the other archival Asian prints, looks better because the Dries placed the decoration strategically and confined it to one side. Other shows for inspiration to look at are Moschino, Marni, and Jason Wu.
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By Iris & Daniel
@everybodyisugly
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Runway photos via Vogue.IT
Cover image from Vogue China by Daniel Jackson
