We’re three weeks into resort season now, and I don’t know about you—but I’m exhausted. And I’m not even seeing the stuff in person! It seems like this year, everyone has jumped on the resort wagon. It’s a big commercial season, but some designers also claim they do it to bridge the gap between their fall and spring collections. Makes sense. Still, I’m running out of space on my computer (too many saved photos) and in my brain (too many fashion phrases), so I thought I’d unburden myself with a style report. We’re really helping each other out. Enjoy!
As usual, I’ll start with some of the big trends from this season. Many designers just run with the flow of their previous collection, so there is some repetition. Others take a complete departure from fall to resort, perhaps hinting at what’s to come for spring. Or not. Let’s analyze.
SHE’S A SPORT The Athletic Trend
Status: In Full Swing (pun intended)
Characterized by track jackets, sweatpants, and trainers, this style has slowly but surely made itself known over the past few seasons. For resort, some designers took a surfer/skier/skater-girl spin on the trend. Perfect timing for the 2012 Olympics.
» Preen: In a collection full of boldly colored digital prints, two looks stood apart—track pants, paired with a blazer and a sequin top, respectively.
» Bottega Venetta: The line’s opening look made me think “chic Sue Sylvester.” Like seriously, I think somebody needs to contact the Glee stylist and make that happen. As at Preen, there were mostly flowery dresses and more feminine pieces, but the sporty looks really stood out.
» T by Alexander Wang: AWang is always leans a bit athletic, especially for his more casual “T” line. This season he went for track/varsity style jackets and zip-up scuba-inspired dresses in simple colors.
» DKNY: This is how I’d like to see an off-duty Olympian dress for an event. Once again, not an entirely athletic collection, but with the one “dressy” track jacket…how could I not put it in this category? Genius.
» Marc by Marc Jacobs: Marc put a different spin on the athletic trend, styling looks that would be appropriate for the slopes. It is resort, after all. Some people do go to Aspen.
Some more wonderful displays of the athletic trend: Richard Chai’s Nike-footed models, Rebecca Minkoff’s skater girls, and Oscar de la Renta’s sequined baseball tee.
ALL TIED UP Scarf Prints
Status: Gaining Momentum
Easily the most DIYable trend of the season (yes, I think of trends in terms of DIYability), scarf prints are blowing up the runways (and showrooms). They’ve become increasingly popular over the past few seasons—think D&G SS12. I think Celine can be credited in part for inspiring this trend, and Phoebe Philo continued to run with it for resort.
» Chloé: Interesting that Philo used to head Chloé and now they’re into this trend. The brand’s relaxed elegance really shone in a simple sack dress with brown and blue prints, a matching button down top was paired with leather shorts for a more urban vibe (both seen on the cover page).
» Givenchy: Riccardo Tisci’s prints read delicate and harsh at the same time, as is the brand’s signature. Small florals were punctuated by large blocks of black and white. Tisci cited gypsies as his inspiration for this collection, which made sense—you could imagine free-spirited bohemians stitching up these pieces out of vintage scarves and handkerchiefs.
» Acne: Blazers and pants were crafted from slinky, scarfy material for this 13-piece collection. Adherence to tonal hues gave the pieces a more discreetly trendy and ultimately unique feel.
» Celine: Of course there were scarf prints at Celine. Executed fabulously as always, breezy pants and shirts were printed with geometric blocks in orange and navy.
» Anna Sui: It’s no secret that Sui is a master of mixing prints, but she showed us again for resort, this time mixing trendy scarf prints with girlish charm in the form of lacy collars and delicate tie-up wedge shoes.
HUED HIDES Colored Leather
Status: Diamond in the Rough
This has to be my favorite of the resort trends. Leather jackets, pants, skirts, shorts, and dresses were displayed in rainbow hues. Whether you’ll be spending time in Ithaca or Ibiza, if you buy one thing for the resort season, make it a blue leather jacket. It’s classic with a unique twist, and was seriously popular for resort in shades ranging from cerulean to cobalt.
» Barbara Bui: Look past the model’s gorgeous cheekbones and cool wind-machine hair to find a collection full of color and chic details. Leather came in tones of orange, green, blue, and camel on shirts, dresses, shorts and pants.
» Jason Wu: Accents of black leather were seen throughout, but the standout piece was a cobalt jacket. Adorned with zipper detailing and worn over a striped top and booty shorts, I imagine it’s the piece that will sell out the fastest once it hits the pages of Net-a-porter.
» Roksanda Ilincic: Dresses over pants was the main theme of this Londoner’s resort line, but a few leather looks were well-placed. Two red-leather jackets were exceptionally good, and would appeal to a bevy of buyers—quite an accomplishment.
» Costume National: A tight orange dress popped against a range of well-constructed, if minimally colored, suits and dresses. Also spotted: desaturated scarf-ish prints.
EDITOR’S PICKS My Favorite Resort Collections
Status: Only the Best
» Tibi: Designer Amy Smilovic knows how to keep things interesting and simple—at the same time. Strong, tropical colors and structured cuts were accented by sea-inspired hints of print. My favorite look featured a large (and admittedly well-timed) white Schiaparelli-esque lobster on a red short-sleeved dress.
» Carven: To be honest, there will probably never be a season when Carven isn’t one of my favorites. Guillame Henry has the cute-unique-urbanite thing down pat, and I’m always impressed. This season saw the return of the ever-popular bow shoes (except this time, the bows are in the front); Henry continued to experiment with simple silhoutte reconstruction and color-contrasting details. The Carven girl is flawlessly chic, and I will always want to be her.
» Rag & Bone: This is all I’ve ever wanted from a fall collection. Sure, it wasn’t extremely daring or over-the-top in terms of design, but it was accessible and marketable. People who actually go to a resort to wear resort clothing probably won’t be huge fans, but the cable knit sweaters and dark floral skirts will certainly resonate with cold-weather loving New Yorkers. Or at least, cold-weather tolerating New Yorkers.
» Cynthia Rowley: Interesting prints, pops of color, and a relaxed vibe=perfection. Leather skirts, plaid pants, and colorful jackets would work for a variety of locations and climates.
» Stella McCartney: Staged in an L.E.S. cemetery, Stella McCartney’s resort collection had ambience and style. And celebrities. Models danced in the grass decked in fringey lace dresses, leopard jackets, and flared pants. If you haven’t seen it already, check out Net-a-porter’s video coverage of the event. Amazing.
What was your favorite resort trend or collection? Leave a comment or send us a tweet @everybodyisugly.