Sad but true: the Fall/Winter 2012 fashion shows are pretty much over. It’s time to return home and back to the office; or in many of our cases, get off our butts and give our computers a break from the obsessive right-clicking that inevitably occurs while browsing runway and street style shots. It’s time to look back and review. How many times were you street-style snapped? How many times did you save a photo of Taylor Tomasi-Hill being street-style snapped? What trends did you spot? And the most important question: which show was your favorite? Today I’m going to reveal a few of mine, from a month ago in New York to just recently in Paris. Enjoy!
>> Anna Sui
Adorable is a word most used to describe probably all of Anna Sui’s collections, ever. But seriously, this one. So freaking cute. From the youthful animal hats to the boldly hued tights (plus: smiling models!), it’s a line I could totally see marketed towards the “Mommy and Me” set. And I mean that in the best way. A bright red varsity jacket embellished with an owl patch stole my heart; another detail to note was the amazing electric blue eyeliner (props to Pat McGrath).
>> Alice + Olivia
Admittedly this wasn’t the most groundbreaking of collections, but designer Stacey Bendet hit so many of the best FW12 trends I didn’t even notice. What can I say? I’m a loyal A + O fan. Peplums were plentiful (well, where weren’t they?), unnaturally colored fur was done with class, and sparkly pieces stole the show. Specifically, an open-backed green sequined number and a gown with a jeweled bodice topped the list of “dresses I hoped to see during awards season.” Overall, a fun collection—as fashion should be.
>> 3.1 Phillip Lim
A return to ladylike dressing is on its way? Psssh. Pleated trousers, architectural knits, and simple metallic jewelry made me think “futuristic grandpa” and have inspired me to infuse even more mannish elements into my wardrobe. I’ve always been an advocate for raiding your father/grandpa/brother/boyfriend’s closet—with collections like this one, how can you not be? It saves money and keeps you stylish. Anyways, specifically I loved the strange hybrid knits, fur-fronted track jackets, and a particular teal topper featuring curved zip-off panels.
>> Mary Katrantzou
Pencils and buildings and flowers, oh my! I imagine watching a Mary Katrantzou show is a bit like a live game of “I Spy.” Crazy/amazing patterns and silhouettes ruled the runway as usual. My favorite looks were the long sleeved, high necked pencil dress and the tent-like floral unicorn one seen above. By the way, did anyone manage to snag (cough, afford) one of her Topshop pieces? If yes, I’m so jealous. Speaking of…
>> Topshop Unique
This collection received some criticism: many said Topshop seemed to be trying too hard. I disagree. The laid-back layers and muted colors had a very cool, wearable, urban vibe. It was a bit of a throwback to the military trend, but the looks still felt new. Let’s define the collection as “refined slouch”—a style I’m personally always trying to perfect. Well done, Topshop.
>> Moschino Cheap and Chic
This label’s Pre-Fall collection was my absolute favorite, so I was really excited to see what creative director Rosella Jardini had in mind for this season. I wasn’t disappointed. The prints were loud, the colors vibrant, and the atmosphere different (this was the first time the Italian brand has shown in London). Texture was also used brilliantly, with shocks of orange lace, black sequins, and green patent leather. Each look was youthful and many on the verge of Nicki Minaj-esque, but when broken down, many pieces would be very wearable. I’m betting the eyeball dress will be next season’s Opening Ceremony Cat Sweater.
Like many of the collections seen in Milan (Alberta Ferretti, Bottega Veneta, Fendi), Gucci veered toward somber and gothic in terms of color palette and styling. This isn’t a bad thing. I’m all for more dark-lipstick rocking fashionistas dripping velvet and leather, even if I could never be one myself. The looks were luxurious, sexy, and ultimately Gucci.
>> Jil Sander
I won’t claim to understand the deeper meaning behind Raf Simons’ final collection for Jil Sander. He’s mastered the art of minimalism and even I, a lover of layers and patterns, was into this collection. It was pretty, even when it turned a bit dark towards the end—perhaps mimicking Simons’ personal meloncholy? Nevertheless, it was a good note to leave on.
It’s always nice (at least I think so) to see a Fall collection that somewhat resembles what we saw during Pre-Fall. Dsquared² did more of the 60’s-in-technicolor thing, a welcome change from SS12 where grunge-boho styles, suitable for “glamping” were prevalent. There was a preppy feel to many of the looks, with collared shirts layered under furry sweaters and cropped trousers paired with poofy newsboy caps. The final few looks seemed straight out of a Teen Vogue prom special—glamourous gowns were worn with funky accessories, and two or three girls sported sharply dressed male models on their arms. Designer duo Dan and Dean Caten finished the show in matching green velvet blazers. Too sweet.
FROM PARIS WITH STYLE
Embellishment is one of Balmain’s strengths. This season was, of course, no exception—in fact, it exceeded expectations. Olivier Rousteing, in his second season, proved himself worthy as the label’s new creative director with stunning pearly jackets and dresses. On the other end of the spectrum, he showed a few simpler pieces (solid knit sweaters, stretchy turtlenecks, suede and velvet pants) that perfectly broke up the jaw-droppers. Another detail to note: the belts, which were amazing as always. An investment accessory if I’ve ever seen one.
It’s become common knowledge that the Carven girl is a cool girl. She wears tapestry jackets without looking like a granny and what appeared to be biblical-inspired prints without seeming sacrilegious.
Highlights included a primary striped blazer, dresses and skirts laser-cut with intricate patterns, and platform t-strap heels.
Can we also just have a moment to discuss Guillaume Henry? #totesadorbs
>> Alexander McQueen
Sarah Burton has brought more femininity and consistency to McQueen, and I don’t hate it. So far her collections have transitioned seamlessly—not because of similarities, really, but one key factor that links them. This season, it was the silhouettes. Voluminous and fluffy jackets and dresses reminded me of the underwater whimsy of SS12, while still managing to feel fresh and forward. One of my favorite over-the-top looks: Frida Gustavsson enveloped in a pink tiered dress. She looked like one of those Barbie cakes! More wearable (but just as covetable!) pieces include some of the shorter tiered dresses, a laser-cut jacket, and face-shielding shades.
What were your favorite FW12 collections? Leave a comment of send us a tweet @everybodyisugly!
by Heather (headbandit)
images via style.com