MaleUgly's blog

With NYFW coming up, I’ve been reflecting on some of my favorite recent shows. Far and away, the Dolce & Gabbana Menswear Fall 2010 has been one of my absolute favorites. Sharp menswear, sharp men, and amazing styling… what could be better? I loved the way the models walked the runway in small groupings, almost as if they were businessmen making their way to work on a Monday morning. Perfectly nonchalant.

Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana said they were inspired by Baaria, a big-budget, sentimental sweep through 20th century Sicily — also Dolce’s birthplace — taking in fascism, war, communism and the Mafia.
They presented a mainly black, white and grey line, sending out models wearing knits over trousers that narrowed at the bottom, against a screen backdrop showing scenes of Baaria.
Vests were tucked into black washed-out jeans or long-john type trousers and shorts. White shirts were sleek and tucked into jeans or black trousers. They accessorized the look with black caps and boots.

While avant garde designs are always fun to see on the runway, there’s something to be said about an impeccably tailored suit in menswear that is hard to resist. Sleek, neat, and unmistakably masculine, Dolce &Gabbana hit the nail right on the head with this collection. It’s like dozens of James Bonds strutting down that runway. Perfection

You have to watch the video of this show for the full effect. It’s really quite stunning.

~DELIGHTFULLY TACKY

All images via WireImage

Plaid is a textile pattern that has been around for centuries. According to textile historian E. J. W. Barber, the Hallstatt culture, which is linked with ancient Celtic populations produced tartan-like textiles as long ago as 100 BC. So, plaid has been in and out of style for hundreds of years. Nowadays, plaid is a relatively widely used pattern, and can be seen on both the haute couture runways and out on fields and ranches around the world. It can be dressed up or down and gives an effortless, carefree look to any outfit.

While some think that plaid should be reserved for farmers, it’s been seen on stylish men all over the globe, rocking it as hard as ever. Here are a few stylish guys from all over the world in various patterns and textiles of plaid.

1. Copenhagen, Denmark

2. Berlin, Germany

3. London, UK

4. Florence, Italy

DELIGHTFULLY TACKY

I am always in awe of people who can make clothing or do actual DIYs because I have no notable skill in that arena. But Yenwithadragon takes it to a whole new level: he’s a fashion designer! Here he is to talk about his inspirations from his most recent designs (while I sob in the corner at my lack of mad skillz)

<3 Wendy
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I come from a fine-arts background, which has greatly affected my work as an aspiring fashion designer — particularly with regard to finer details. For menswear, I believe smaller details are one of the factors that catch people’s eye the most. Unlike womenswear, the majority of menswear tends to have more restrictions, so I really enjoy creating interesting details to distinguish my work from others.

Another important element I pay close attention to is fit, especially at the shoulders and the waist — the shoulder lines must be exactly where your shoulders are, otherwise I think it looks sloppy, and a cinched waistline gives more definition to your body. (I’m sure lots of contemporary-minded men know what I’m talking about.)

Like many other designers, I started designing for myself. I love the idea of making a special piece just for me, and having total control over how it will look. I always start out thinking about who I want to dress — who would be the muse for me? Everyday people with great style really inspire me to create something that is functional and wearable, yet sophisticated. If pressed, I would describe my personal style as subtle, elegant, and fun, but never boring.

Here are a few looks I put together for this special Chictopia post. (Yes, I made all the clothing you see here.) With these four looks, I hope you’ll get a sense of my design philosophy.

This mint-stripe, pleated-bib shirt has one of my favourite details: studded epaulettes. The grey herringbone trousers reflect my desire for an elegant look, but the subtle details — the epaulettes, the bib, and the unconventional colour of the stripes — hopefully give it an unconventional edge.

This summery shirt, with tiny yellow polka-dots and a pink collar, is paired with pastel-blue cuffed shorts — what I call the male version of bubble shorts. You can see the belt loops on both sides, and the studs on the cuffs. These shorts move great when you walk in them, too.

As you’ve probably noticed, I cut my shirts shorter than usual. I do this because I’m not particularly tall, so too long of a shirt hanging out would not be flattering on me. (Also, I get paranoid about my tucked-in shirts popping out after I’ve moved around.) This is a blue-striped shirt (with the stripes going in three different directions) with a white rounded collar. These fitted black pants are perfect with a patterned shirt because they don’t distract focus.

This cropped jacket is my favourite piece from my last school collection. I’ve always liked the little short jackets girls wear, so I decided to make a male version of it. I found this rich-looking, black cashmere-blend material to go with the black satin — the two tones of black look awesome together, I think. Instead of just a single button closure, I put a buckle on it to give it a fun twist.

I’ve received great responses to my creations from Chictopians over the past year, and I’m really honoured to have this opportunity to share my work with so many people. Please stay tuned for my grand graduation collection in mid-2010. Wish me luck, Chictopians!

Patrik Ervell is introducing new colors and techniques with his next collection, and it’s very welcoming! Aside from the suit made to look as if it was covered in rust (which is pretty cool, pretty insane), most outfits can be easily absorbed into your closet. Hmm, wait, no Air Jacket this season? A sham!

Slowdive, slim suits, sunsets, and blonde fros… An escape from the fuss of NY Fashion Week, Patrik’s Spring 2010 show is one to remember.

Here are some choice looks, from an ocean blue denim ensemble to mint colored trousers (paired with Wallabee boots and suede desert boots).

And a quick vid of the finale walk: Patrik Ervell Spring 2010

Cheers,
Philip

(photos: Men.Style.Com)

This year, the September shows are the same weather-wise: lots of humidity (and don’t forget the rain!). You can imagine it becomes quite difficult to dress: you plan to put your game face on among the sea of street style photogs and models, while having to deal with sweating from one show to the next.

Today I felt it adequate to wear Patrik Ervell with plans to attend his show, regardless of current temperature (wool blazer, probably not the smartest choice for 75°). My outfit was brainless: black blazer, linen button-down, black boots.

Philip

Hello!

I’m here at New York Fashion Week to share with you some of the shows put on for us gents. Arriving during the second leg of the “week” means missing some key collections (Rag & Bone, Loden Dager, Robert Gellar, Shipley & Halmos) but today I attended two you probably will (or should) look up.

This afternoon started with the Rad Hourani Spring 2010 show at Milk Studios. Having ran late and almost missing the show (I had to be escorted to my seat with only half a minute to spare!) I forgot my camera’s charger, but fail-you-not, my phone’s camera + video offers some footage. Zippers, high heels, fringe, high heels, wings, high heels, sheer tops, high heels… The first look I’ve uploaded (second to last in the show) is probably the best out of the collection, and can we agree that he is definitely pulling off those shutter pants? (see: shutter shades)

I’ve uploaded a small clip for your viewing: Rad Hourani Spring 2010

Patrik Ervell up next!

Cheers,
Philip

(high quality runway shots: nymag.com)